Fianarantsoa, Madagascar – Our New Home

We are based in Fianarantsoa, in the central highlands of Madagascar, for our volunteering work with Feedback Madagascar/ Ny Tanintsika. Fianarantsoa is the 5th largest city in Madagascar and the capital of the Haute Matsiatra region. It was built by the Merina people in the early 19th century for the Betsileo Kingdom when the regions of Madagascar where unified. The Betsileo people are known as very hard working people. Others joke that they are always cold and even wear jumpers on the hottest of days.

The Ny Tanintsika office in Fianarantsoa has about 15 employees and probably another 15 field staff. We are really lucky to be a part of this organisation.  The staff are wonderful and have been very welcoming. They are all highly educated and very knowledgeable. Their experiences and willingness to help have made our journey here very enjoyable. We have been lucky to rent a house next to the office.  It is very nice – especially for Malagasy standards. There are two bedrooms, a living area, small kitchen with a camping gas burner to cook and a bathroom. We’ve been sharing with a young dutch/german couple completing a University degree in International Development. Washing is very refreshing as we only have cold water. Boiling some hot water makes it possible for us to have the occasional warm bucket shower.

The best things about Fianarantsoa are the Ny Tanintsika staff and local people. Most people are very friendly and say hello when you pass by on the street. We’ve been to Karaoke with locals and had a blast. Singing here feels much easier (and somewhat less embarrassing) than back home. Buying our fresh fruit and vegetables is always an experience.  The market place is full of people and getting what you want can be a challenge. Although Fianar is very developed there are still rice paddies wherever houses have not been built. Waterways are sadly full of rubbish as is often the case with cities in developing countries. There are also many fruit trees scattered through the city. There are many peach trees in which you will often find chameleons, rocking back and forth, stalking insects.

Most Vazaha and tourists only stop in Fianarantsoa overnight on their way to Tulear or returning from visiting national parks such as Andringitra, Ranomafana or Isalo.  We’ve had a fantastic experience here so far, met some lovely Malagasy people and eaten many wonderful foods. Thanks Fianarantsoa.

Our page on Feedback Madagascar and Ny Tanintsika

Kirindy Private Forest Reserve

Kirindy Reserve is a privately managed forest in one of Madagascar’s most threatened ecosystems: its dry deciduous forests. There are many animals with 31 different mammals with 8 species of lemur and it is the best place to see the elusive fossa. There are also 50 different species of reptiles. We highly recommend a visit to Kirindy. If you don’t have time to drive out to Tsingy, a good alternative would be to drive from Morondava to Kirindy, stay one night, do a night walk that evening and a morning walk the next day. After that drive back to Morondava stopping off at the Alle des Baobabs for an amazing sunset. Many tourists visit the Baobabs but if you squint you may just be able to pretend all the other ‘Vazah’ are not there.

We really enjoyed our night walk in Kirindy, we saw several nocturnal lemurs and reptiles. The morning walk was also good, where we saw many diurnal lemurs. We saw a few fossa as well as they come into camp for a drink as water is very scarce in this forest. The forest is certainly dry, don’t expect any lush green rainforests here.

Our only ‘gripe’ about Kirindy was that were were practically forced to stay at the Reserve in a room for 120 000 Ar per night, which was high compared to other accommodation we were staying at in the region. We had wanted to camp, but were told that the fossa will eat our tent…hmmm. We felt like the staff took advantage of the tourists and were ripping us off a bit. No cheap accommodation was available, we had to eat at their restaurant and they would add on small prices for many things. Perhaps you could try camp Amoureux instead only a few kilometres away, which is camping, but may be better value. All in all, it was well worth it as Kirindy is an excellent forest teeming with wildlife.