We stayed in Morondava for one night before heading to Tsingy and for four nights after returning (we could have stayed longer, it is a very relaxing place). On our way back from Tsingy and Kirindy, it is very common for your 4×4 driver/tour to take you to Allee des Baobabs (baobab alley) to see the sunset before returning to Morondava (baobab alley is less than one hour’s drive from Morondava). The baobabs are over 800 years old and incredibly beautiful and striking though it is terribly sad to see that most of the other trees in the region have been razed to the ground, which makes these huge trees even more ominous and looming. Sadly, the area is not a national park, and the trees are threatened by further deforestation, effluent from encroaching rice paddies and sugar cane plantations, and fires. Despite its popularity as a tourist destination, the area has no visitor center or gate fees, and local residents receive little income from tourism. There are many enormous baobabs in the region including a sacred tree where people pray. If you have a driver, ask him to take you to some of the other baobabs in the region, some are intertwining, which looks quite romantic! *Traveller alert* – this is probably one of the most visited tourist attractions in Madagascar, so if you are expecting the alley to yourself at sunset, think again. Take plenty of patience with you and try to arrive early if you want to take a photo without tourists ruining it!
Morondava is a very pleasant seaside town on the west coast of Madagascar. It has a laidback feel to it (apart from the main street on market day, which is quite thriving). There is a strip of hotels/restaurants lining the beach and mangroves on the other side of the road catering to a range of budgets. The seafood is superb. Especially now having visited a few coastal areas in Madagascar, we really were spoiled with the quality and variety of seafood in Morondava. The beach is pretty good (and clean). You can take a pirogue trip down the river. Morondava is a great base from which you head to Baobab Alley, Tsingy or south to Belo sur Mer. We stayed four nights and would have liked to stay longer. At first we stayed at Trecicogne as it was listed as the ‘top pick’ on Lonely Planet. But we left after two nights as they kept turning the water off. We understand that water is short, but we drew the line at not being able to wash our hands after going to the toilet! We sort of splashed out on our last two nights at the Baobab Hotel – 80,000 Ar per night about $35AUD. http://www.baobabcafe-hotel.net/baobabcafe-circuit-hotel-en.html This hotel was really nice, and bonus had a pool! We also splashed out on a huge crayfish for 35,000Ar, $15. It was to die for! We recommend eating at Bougainvilliers (try the stuffed crab) and Stadium Hotel on the main street (7000Ar for two huge langostines). Needless to say, we were a bit sad to leave Morondava, especially knowing we had two days of taxi-brousses ahead of us…