Category Archives: Adventures

Adventures, Hiking, Madagascar, Outdoors

Maroantsetra – gateway to Masoala National Park

March 8, 2015 Alex and Annie Leave a comment

False Start (Tana-Maroantsetra)

We were supposed to fly from Tana to Maroantsetra on 18 December 2014. We were about 3-4hrs away from the airport in Andasibe. We’d booked a car for 8am to take us to the airport, our flight was supposed to be at 1:20pm so were told we had plenty of time. Air Madagascar (Mad Air) is notorious for cancelling/rescheduling their flights at late notice. We had been previously reassured by them that they would telephone us if their was a change, but in Andasibe we didn’t have any phone network. In hindsight, we really should have made sure to call them the night before. An hour into our drive to Tana, we got network coverage, and we see a text message saying our flight had been brought forward to 9:45am! There was no way we were going to make that flight in time. We frantically tried to call Mad Air, and kept losing phone connection. Finally they advised us the flight had actually been cancelled. In a way, this was much better than early takeoff as we didn’t just miss our flight.

The traffic was horrendous through Tana and we only just made it to the airport 45min before the flight was initially scheduled to fly so we would have been cutting it fine in any case. We were advised the flight was cancelled and they would call us later that afternoon. We checked into a hotel. No phone call. We went into the Air Mad office in town and were advised the next flight to Maroantsetra would be in four days! Yay (sarcasm), four days hanging around in Tana. It wasn’t so bad though, we visited Ambohimanga, which is a hill and traditional fortified royal settlement 24km northeast of Tana. We hired a car that took us for half the day there and back. This was an enjoyable day trip. Depending on your previous experiences of royal palaces, this may seem very basic, however this is the best-preserved monument of the precolonial Kingdom of Madagascar and very interesting when you consider what life must have been like for them.

Kings quarters to the left and queens (plural) to the right

On 22^nd December we arrived at the airport very early before our flight. Once at the counter we were advised the flight was overbooked and we could not get a seat! We were very frustrated by this time, as we couldn’t afford to wait another four days. We explained to the staff that we had already been postponed four days. Luckily they did end up finding us seats, hurray! On the flight, three people sat in the cockpit with the pilot and the air steward sat in the toilet for takeoff and landing, poor guy! We arrived in Maroantsetra safe and sound, it was very hot when we arrived. We were met by Rakotovazah, a slightly eccentric appearing and softly soft spoken man, who arranged pretty much our whole holiday in Masoala. We had a good feeling driving into town. Very basic palm huts lined the road, but they were very neat and tidy. It felt slightly surreal arriving in this rural, faraway town only 90 minutes after leaving Tana. We took a taxi to Coco Beach Motel, which was lovely, and discussed our tour. We were very happy with the price and plans, we were to be picked up by the boat right in front of our hotel the next morning. We had a lovely seafood lunch overlooking the mangroves, and hired bicycles and rode down to the beach for a swim. Alex even joined me for a spot of yoga in the evening! We eventually left on a small motor boat the next morning two hours after we were supposed to, Malagasy time!

After our trip to Masoala and Nosy Mangabe, we returned to Maroantsetra for one night. We were exhausted from our trip and were told the boat we needed to take to Soanierana Ivongo for our Nosy Boraha transfer would leave at 10pm that night. It would be a 10hr boat trip through the night. It was a boat trip to forget. Many boats have capsized on this journey. About 2hrs into the trip I hoped the boat would capsize! I just wanted off! It felt like a riding bull in a sauna with repetitive Malagasy music bursting our eardrums. This was Alex’s worst trip in Madagascar. We recommend to take the 2 day journey by 4 wheel drive down the infamous RN5 or flight with Mad Air before attempting this boat ride. We may not have taken these routes but anything has to be better than that boat!

Adventures, Animals, Madagascar, Outdoors

Vakona Lodge and lemur island

March 5, 2015 Alex and Annie Leave a comment

On our last day in Andasibe we hired bicycles from Marie and rode to Vakona Lodge. Although the bikes looked good we quickly realized they were just holding together. Lets say we had a fun time cycling about 10km to Vakona Lodge from Marie’s Guesthouse. We had lunch there which was lovely, it was a bit more expensive ($10 meals) than other restaurants in the area, but was worth it. The restaurant is set in a lovely garden with a lake, and we sat there for hours just soaking it up.

After lunch we visited the lemur park (15 000Ar). We had mixed feelings about this place. We had heard many rumors from the locals and other tourists about how the lemurs are treated and the way in which the park was managed. The lemurs had been far removed from their natural habitat. Their behavior had changed; they were comfortable around people and had been fed to please the tourists. It was however a great experience to get really up close and personal with the lemurs – they were sitting on our shoulders and climbing all over us. Some of the lemurs you will see at Vakona:

Eastern lesser bamboo lemur

Black and white ruffed lemur

Common brown lemur

Diademed sifaka

There is also a crocodile park that homes a fossa, that we did not visit. We had heard the fossa is locked in a small cage and considering we had seen them in the wild decided not to go. Their hotel is set in lovely surroundings, food was fantastic and seeing the lemurs so close was really awesome. We just couldn’t help feeling a bit uneasy about the place considering some of the things we had seen and heard.

A huge thunderstorm started just as we were leaving and we rode home with our hearts in our chests, lightning and thunder sooo close. We didn’t feel too comfortable on metal bikes, but there was nowhere to shelter so we just legged it. To top it off the brake cable snapped on Alex’s bike and sent him flying down the hill. Thankfully we made it back safe and in one piece, phew!

Adventures, Madagascar, Outdoors, Volunteering

Visit to Mitsinjo Community Association

March 1, 2015 Alex and Annie Leave a comment

Association Mitsinjo is a community based environmental NGO located in Andasibe. Mitsinjo manages and protects the Analamazaotra Forest Station, Torotorofotsy wetlands and forests connected with but not part of the Andasibe-Mantadia national parks. The organization runs ecological monitoring of endangered lemur species, with special focus on the Indri and Greater Bamboo Lemur. Mitsinjo also run several tree nurseries with an annual production capacity of more than 100,000 seedlings and comprised of approximately 120 endemic species. They are also part of an international amphibian research center created to protect the endemic frogs of Madagascar.

Find out more on their Facebook page

The restoration objectives set by Mitsinjo were developed to comply with guidelines set out in the Kyoto Protocol. The scheme encourages conservation, enhancement and restoration of natural forest corridors between larger forest fragments. The activities attempt to encourage maximum community involvement to develop sustainable livelihoods for the local population.

removal of exotic blackberry and planting of native species

We had been in contact with Mitsinjo and they invited us to visit them in Andasibe. We arrived at the reception center in the morning but a large group of tourists beat us there. They had a tour planned that morning called “Plant a Tree and Save Forests! Mitsinjo Forest Restoration Tour”. The visitors receive a presentation explaining Mitsinjo’s mission, current activities, and past successes. After the presentation the tourists went on a quick walk to view the Indri Indri followed by each planting a native tree in restoration. Fortunately after these morning commitments the head nurseryman was available to show us around after an early lunch.

At lunch we met two inspiring Malagasy men called Jean-Noel (Mitsinjo President) and Youssouf (VP and head nurserymen). We discussed some of Mitsinjo’s recent projects and current challenges. They had a thorough understanding of native forest restoration and firm practices in place. We spoke about possibilities for bilateral information exchange between Ny Tanintsika and Mitsinjo. The organisations had similar projects running within the humid forests of eastern Madagascar, although separated by almost 500km.

In the afternoon Youssouf showed us around their very impressive nursery. We were hopeful to see some techniques that could be transferred or adapted to assist Ny Tanintsika with their projects. We discussed a production technique for the critical ingredient in soils for restoration: Vesicular-arbuscular mycorrhiza (VAM).

See our VAM post here!

We viewed current restoration areas of the forest. We were fortunate that this area showed the different stages of restoration. The group were restoring an area of forest that had become infested by Rubus alceifolius, a type of blackberry, and very difficult to control. Three years of slashing the blackberry was required before any native seedlings could be planted. Native species were planted with purpose and specific roles to play. Plants from all stages of succession were used in an effort to speed up the restoration process. Seedlings of species with medicinal and other benefits for the local people are planted on the boundary of the national park(s). This helped to keep the local community from entering a park to find these traditional plants and restricted the amount of disturbance within the parks.

restoration after invasion of exotic species

The large areas infested by rubus and other exotic species, combined with savoka (abandoned agricultural land), makes the restoration of critical areas in Andasibe seem quite daunting. With limited financial support given to organisations like Mitsinjo, they are extremely successful and fulfill a very important role for restoration activities in Madagascar.

Adventures, Madagascar, Outdoors, Volunteering

Mitsinjo Community Reserve

February 25, 2015 Alex and Annie Leave a comment

Just opposite of the entrance to Andasibe-Mantadia National Park is a local initiative by Association Mitsinjo who manages the Analamazaotra Forest Station. The forest is in excellent condition and the group is working to remove all of the exotic eucalypt and pine from the area. You will see some reforestation plots if you decide to take a walk with Mitsinjo in their reserve. They also have an orchid garden and offer walks through the treetops.

We had been in contact with community group Mitsinjo Association via email and they invited us to see their work. The head nurseryman Youssouf was not available in the morning due to a large tour group so we took a walk through the forest with one of the Mitsinjo guides. He has been taking tours for over 8 years in the Andasibe and the surrounding forests. Within the first 15min of the walk we met our first curious looking but very handsome giraffe weevil. The male has an elongated neck to fight away other courting males while the female uses her shorter neck to roll up the leaf tightly in which she lays her eggs. Its an amazing and very funny looking adaptation. We even managed to spot some have sex.

Only 10min further down the track the guide called to come quickly. We scuttled through the forest to meet our first Indri Indri! The guide had spotted a female with her young and another male further out watching out for them. Throughout the day we saw a few groups of Indri, which was made possible as Mitsinjo’s guides know the Indri’s habits well. There have been several lemur translocations into the forests around Andasibe. The study and tracking of Indri Indri by Mitsinjo provides vital information for the protection and conservation of such species.

There was a large group of Japanese tourists visiting at the same time. Jean-Noel (president) and Youssouf (vice president) gave presentations in the morning on the progress of restoration activities and conservation projects. The large group are part of a tour called “Plant a Tree and Save Forests! Mitsinjo Forest Restoration Tour” They would have presentations in the morning followed by a guided walk. The group would then plant seedlings that they had funded in a parcel of reforestation.

Mitsinjo are the only guides that offer nightwalks in the forest (and not the usual walk along the road). Tours to the Mitsinjo forest are also cheaper than the national park. Your money will be used for community projects related to health and agriculture for local people living around the forests managed by the association. An organisation that is very worthwhile supporting!

Adventures, Hiking, Madagascar, Outdoors, Volunteering

Vulnerable Households Project

February 22, 2015 Alex and Annie Leave a comment

Madagascar has an exponentially increasing population. Currently the number of people virtually doubles every 10 years. This population explosion has put immense pressure on society and environment. Estimates place the amount of land cleared in Madagascar as high as 90% but this figure is likely to be exaggerated. Little ‘intact’ forest remains and the amount of agricultural land available (especially productive virgin land) for further utilization is fast diminishing. New sustainable agriculture techniques are required to assure the people of Madagascar will be able to feed themselves into the future.

Vulnerable people in rural Madagascar are the most marginalised and impoverished and often do not have access to land, especially not their own. The land is usually unproductive and fallow. Soils require intensive ameliorative actions to restore nutrients and organic material in the soil profile leading to increased agricultural productivity. A grant from the Innocent Foundation has enabled vulnerable households to secure agricultural land and Ny Tanintsika Field Agents are teaching them sustainable agricultural techniques.

Ny Tanintsika beneficiaries mostly borrow land from family, neighbours or acquaintances. Continued access to land is insecure. Beneficiaries run the risk of other people claiming ownership of land and crops produced. As such, Ny Tanintsika is attempting to secure formal land tenure for these households, though it is proving a complex and arduous process.

Most vulnerable households and people we have been fortunate to meet are very proud of their achievements. Having been given an opportunity to develop new skills and participate in the agroforestry and alternative livelihoods projects they are eager to demonstrate their success. It has been inspiring to meet with these people that have made so much from this limited opportunity.

Accommodation, Adventures, Hiking, Madagascar, Outdoors

Andasibe and Mantadia National Park

February 17, 2015 Alex and Annie Leave a comment

We visited Andasibe to meet with a local community organization called Mitsinjo and to visit Ambatovy, a nickel and cobalt mine site on the outskirts of the national park. Andasibe village is a quaint Malagasy town, dissected by a river and descended upon by thousands of tourists throughout the year wanting to catch a glimpse of the Indri Indri. The Indri Indri is the largest of the lemurs and a spectacular sight to see. The Indri’s home is the Andasibe-Mantadia National Park which is located roughly 3-4 hours drive east from Tana on RN2.

It is possible to catch a taxi brousse directly to Andasibe from Tana. These are however limited and very expensive. The cheaper option is to take the taxi brousse to Moramanga (7 000Ar, about $3) and then catch a connecting local taxi brousse for the remaining 45km to Andasibe. This was the most squished we have ever been in a taxi-brousse, they really squeezed us in. Anneka had marary kibo (an upset stomach) and we were very glad when the van finally took off and dropped us at our hotel – Marie Guesthouse, within an hour. As Anni wasn’t feeling too well, we took it easy for the rest of the afternoon.

The next morning we walked to Mitsinjo, the local community organisation, which is less than 2km from Marie Guesthouse. Remember to come back soon to read our post on Mitsinjo!

We also visited Ambatovy nickel and cobalt mine. Representatives from Ambatovy visited Alex’s old work, Alcoa in Western Australia about 4 years ago, to learn best practice for forest rehabilitation. Because of this, we were invited to visit Ambatovy’s operations and to see their rehabilitation. They have not done much reforestation yet, but from what we could ascertain they were doing a pretty good job. The company genuinely seemed committed to restoring the forest after mining activities.

Andasibe-Mantadia National Park is famous for the Indri Indri but also contains many other species of lemurs and is well renowned for its orchids and reptiles. We visited Mitsinjo Reserve and Mantadia national park while in Andasibe. When trekking through Mantadia your guide will take you through some breathtaking primary forest with large trees that have been saved from logging. Some 14 species of lemur live in and around Mantadia however you must work hard for the rewards. Our guide spent over 4 hours tracking several families of the black and white ruffed lemurs. They tempted us with their glorious calls all morning but managed to avoid us for most of the day.

We headed back for lunch and heard their calls again over a ridge. The guide asked if we still wanted to try and catch up with them. We looked up the steep, densely vegetated hillside and replied ‘yeka’ – and we were off again. Finally we made it to the top of the ridge but still couldn’t see the group of lemurs we had heard. The guide spotted them after a while and we spent the next half hour observing these spectacular creatures. We headed off and finished the day with lunch at a pleasantly cool waterfall.

We stayed at Marie Guesthouse which was quite cheap – 25 000 Ar. You can hear the Indri’s wail early in the morning – which can be considered a treat or a curse depending on how lightly you sleep! The rooms were fairly basic, but comfortable enough. The restaurant was good and we really enjoyed learning Malagasy with the waitstaff who were very friendly. It was good that the taxi-brousse drops you right in front of the hotel. The location was good, there is another hotel directly across the road, Feony Ala which also had good food. Mitsinjo was only 20min walk away.

If you only have limited time in Andasibe we would recommend to visit the Mitsinjo Reserve to view the Indri Indri and learn the basics about forest restoration. If you wish to see another national park then Andasibe would be our choice. Although we did not visit this park, the other option, Mantadia is much more expensive due to car and guide hire and requires hard work to see wildlife that remains mostly hidden in the primary forest.