Category Archives: Madagascar

Toliara and Mangily Beach

We spent our last 10 days on the coast in Toliara (Tulear) in the south west of Madagascar, mainly to chill out and recharge, but also to visit the spiny forest. We caught a taxi brousse from Isalo (Ranohira) to Toliara, which took 5 hours. We arrived late, just before 10pm and stayed a night at Chez Alain, which was very pleasant and had a good restaurant (luckily still open).

From Toliara, we travelled 40km north to a beach called Mangily. We checked into a lovely bungalow right on the beach, with incredible sunsets, at a hotel called ‘Bamboo Club’. It had a little family of mouse lemur living in the roof and one had made a little home in the back of a speaker. The days floated by surprisingly fast, as they always seem to do on holiday. We only ate, slept, snorkelled and lazed by the pool.

We did take a walking tour into the spiny forest one evening, which was very interesting and surprisingly cool considering the desert climate. The plants and creatures were out of this world, twisted baobabs, weird cacti, hissing cockroaches and spiky tenrecs (impossibly cute and look just like little hedgehogs).

After a week or so, we had to move back to Toliara. We decided to visit the Antsokay Arboretum, a hidden gem and a very pleasant surprise. This was a lovely way to end our time in Mada, what a find this was, in what felt like the middle of nowhere. Antsokay is an extremely well presented little resort that established an arboretum over 20 years ago. The arboretum displays the wonders of the spiny forest over a 2-3 hour walk. This place had a pool and great wifi in the restaurant, so we were very happy to spend our last few days here. We were also extremely lucky to spend a last evening with our friend, Barry Ferguson, an inspirational social and environmental justice warrior (hope you don’t mind that description Barry!) Thanks Barry for a memorable last evening, with a feast of whole sheep, goat and spirited dancing in the sand.

Sadly, this was our very last stop in Madagascar, before flying to Johannesburg. There were a few tears welling as we drove to the airport, passing typical Malagasy scenes of palm trees, rice paddies, friendly vendors in front of their shacks, more than a few potholes and stray dogs. We met many inspiring people and made amazing friends. Veloma Madagascar, mandra pihaona (see you again soon).

Misaotra Feedback Madagascar/Ny Tanintsika and Mandra Pihaona

After six amazing months in Madagascar, our time with Ny Tanintsika came to an end in March 2015. We were sad to leave this beautiful country and people. This island, named by some as the eighth continent, is so rich in culture and energy; despite being incredibly financially poor and politically unstable; the people really make the most of what they have with a strong sense of community. We made many good friends and learned so much from our experiences. Hopefully we contributed to the organisation at least partly as much as we gained. We really were so impressed that the staff manage to make so much progress with such little funding or government support. Their tireless effort was incredibly inspiring.

We had a great farewell, the staff organised delicious snacks and music. We received a lovely hat and a locally made bright orange handbag with photos inside of our time at Ny Tanintsika. We also went to karaoke and danced with the staff at a local nightclub; this was a lot of fun. We wish you all the very best Ny Tanintsika, but for now we can only say Misaotra betsaka (many thanks) for all your lessons and support and Mandra Piona (see you later). We are thankful to Eugenie for guiding us, providing feedback and spending time showing us projects in Ambositra. Thank you to Sam for her guidance, support and patience with our many questions, you are an inspiration! We would also like to send heartfelt thanks to all the staff. Thank you for your help, guidance, and Malagasy lessons. Without your support and assistance we would not have been able to contribute as we had hoped. And of course, a huge thank you to Jamie for saying yes to us in the first place! There are so many other people we are eternally grateful to, so thank you everyone at Ny Tanintsika, we really do hope to return to this colourful, energetic country in the not too distant future.

If you want know more about this NGO, please visit our page on Feedback Madagascar / Ny Tanintsika or www.feedback.org.

Ibity Massif – Priority area for Conservation

While working at Ny Tanintsika we were fortunate to be invited on a workshop to Ibity with Missouri Botanical Garden (MBG) and Kew Madagascar (KMCC). Ibity is a small community in the central highlands of Madagascar located roughly 20km south from Antsirabe. The workshop was to identify critical ecosystem characteristics and other factors for consideration in developing a management plan for the area. This included fire regime, Tapia woodland restoration and the enhancement of existing gallery forests. Essential to a successful day we required an injection of caffeine. We shared morning coffees at a local bakery over introductions and a general discussion about MGB’s desired outcomes from the session. The charismatic Chris Birkinshaw is the project lead for MBG in Madagascar and led the discussions. He had invited local Kew environmental and restoration specialists, members from the worldwide MBG team and Stuart Cable, Kew Research leader for Madagascar.

The Ibity massif is a 6000ha quartz mountain that has been flagged as a priority area for conservation due to the large number of locally endemic plant species found there. The area contains diverse grasslands and regular rocky outcrops that lead to drainage gullies covered by some taller trees and shrubs known as gallery forests. On bands across the hillsides are small pockets of remnant Tapia woodland. Holcim (one of Madagascar’s largest cement producers) has a factory adjacent to the proposed conservation area. The company, after lobbying, has agreed to support the project and help the local community with funding to protect this unique landscape.

Our first stop at the Ibity project site was a remnant pocket of Tapia woodland. Tapia is important to the local communities as it provides edible fruit and silk cocoons. The cocoons are produced by a moth that feeds on Tapia leaves and is endemic to the highlands of Madagascar. Tapia woodland tends to occupy areas of shallow soils with rocky outcrops. This has also helped to protect the woodlands from deforestation for agricultural land as it typically grows around rocks on impoverished lands.

The field trip and workshop showed there is good understanding in the significance of numerous ecosystems/biomes in Madagascar however limited in detail to understand why some systems are failing. Madagascar has many varied environments which differ in their responses and adaptations to human interference.  More scientific investigation and experimentation is urgently required to develop detailed management plans for numerous areas of environmental significance.

Madagascar has a fast growing population that is largely impoverished and has dramatically changed the landscape at an alarmingly rate. More collaboration is required between organisations and departments with similar aims and objectives. Due to limited funding and participation, organizations needs to actively share information to avoid wasting resources on duplication. The trip to Ibity was rewarding and our sharing ideas and information will hopefully lead to better outcomes for the conservation of the Ibity massif and its stunning landscapes.

Isalo National Park

Isalo National Park is located in southern Madagascar on the RN7 heading towards Tulear. The park is well known for its sandstone formations and large canyons. The terrain ranges from rocky cliffs, to beautiful pandanus lined streams and vast dry grasslands. The scenery here was spectacular.

We stayed in a small village called Ranohira located just a few kilometres from the national park. We stayed in a nice relaxed place known as Chez Alice with views of the massif. On our arrival we made contact with a guide named Parson who works with WWF and once worked as a park ranger in Isalo. He was an amazing person and guide. He shared with us many stories about the local Bara people and history of the area. The Bara are traditionally nomadic people that have an unsurpassed fascination with zebu (cattle). If a young man wishes to marry he must first steal zebu to prove that he is worthy of the union. This tradition has almost died out but some remote villages still practice the old customs. He told us many interesting stories like this one about the history of the area mixed in with typically terrible “Dad” jokes.

We spent two full days hiking with Parson within the park. The park entrance and guide fees were the most expensive that we had experienced of National Parks in Madagascar. The first day we saw a huge spectacular canyon, catta lemurs, burial sites, grasslands and a hidden oasis. We had walked for almost 20km before reaching the main road back into Ranohira. Still 9km from town and decided it would be best for us to hitch a ride with someone. Within a few minutes a vehicle came along the road which we tried to hail down. It turned out to be the local police chief! He was happy to take us back into town.

The next day we had a shorter 17km walk. We saw another spectacular canyon into which we walked and followed a stream into the upper reaches. We bathed in a very cool natural pool with a couple of snakes. The wildlife was not visibly abundant in Isalo but the landscape and scenery easily made up for this. Not surprisingly this is the second most visited national park in Madagascar.

Land Tenure in Madagascar

Land in Madagascar is usually obtained through inheritance, gift, or clearing fallow land. Ownership of agricultural land is a significant determinant of welfare. 77 percent of the rural population is below the national poverty line, and those without land are the poorest. Only about 7% of agricultural land is registered.

The majority of landholders in Madagascar assert rights to land under customary law. Land is perceived as the land of the ancestors (tanindrazana). Although land may become individualized, many believe that it must be titled or recorded in some fashion before an individual can claim perpetual ownership rights to the plot. However, many villagers do not see the necessity of formal registration.

Madagascar established a Torrens land registration system during the colonial period. Registration under the system proceeded slowly and inefficiently. Records of land once formally registered have fallen out of date because of the high costs of the formal registration process. Registration requires an average of 74 days to navigate seven different procedures, with 24 steps involved. The organisations tasked with administering the system, Services Fonciers Topographie and Domaine lack sufficient funds. Local land registry offices have been established to allow people to legalise private property rights through the issue of individual or collective land certificates. So far, only one fifth of local governments have a land registry office.

The cost of obtaining a land certificate is approximately 9.7% of the property value. The average cost MGA 60,000 ($USD350), which is more than the annual wage of many farmers. If parents die, applicants must start process again. It is costly and lengthy to determine who owns a parcel of land and all inheritors must be identified. Once a land certificate has been issued, the recipient(s) must pay taxes, which many people cannot afford. Further complicating the issue is that often people who do not have a legitimate claim to the land are the first to come forward with a claim.

Malagasy NGO Ny Tanintsika works with communities on local projects to reduce poverty and improve conservation. One of their projects works with the poorest and most marginalised people assisting them to grow food crops using sustainable methods. Beneficiaries have mostly borrowed land from family, neighbours or acquaintances, and continued access to land is insecure. Beneficiaries run the risk of other people claiming ownership of land and crops produced.

Ny Tanintsika is working to secure formal land tenure for these households, though it is proving a complex and arduous process. They are in the beginning stages of assisting communities to set up local land offices to help smallholders receive land tenure certification or title deeds (part of the Malagasy government’s National Land Tenure Reform Programme). Once a land office is set up in a commune, the community is tasked with managing the office and setting fee charges for the service. Ny Tanintsika is currently applying for funding to establish the first land office in one of the communes that they work, Ankarimbelo in the central highlands. If successful, they will expand this to other communes in their sphere of influence. If you would like to donate to this worthy cause, please visit https://www.justgiving.com/feedbacktrust/donate/

Nosy Boraha and Ile Aux Nattes

We left Maroantsetra by boat 10:30pm under darkness to Soanierana Ivongo. This boat trip was not fun or enjoyable to say the least! We spent over nine hours crammed into a tiny boat, the windows had to be closed because of water spray, so we were all sweating and there was no air circulation. They had a tv screen  constantly showing Malagasy pop videos the entire journey, yay! Alex was really suffering as he was crammed into the seat next to the wall which was really claustrophobic. The deck hand made trips down the passageway handing out (and collecting) spew bags. But, we made it! We were fortunate to be able to get a boat from Soanierana Ivongo to Ile Sainte Marie the same morning, we thought we would have to stay a night in Soanierana, which we weren’t hugely looking forward to. It’s a rundown seaside town with no attractions and activities. We arrived on Ile Sainte Marie a day earlier than expected, which was a great bonus.

We were picked up by a guy in a tuk-tuk, that Vincent from Sambatra Beach Lodge, had organized for us. Sambatra means ‘happiness’ in Malagasy but, on the funny side, it is also the name of a huge circumcision festival in Manajary, held every seven years. We took a pirogue to our hotel, which was in an absolutely idyllic location. It really was the beach that postcards just couldn’t do justice. The bungalows were brand new and really well presented. The hotel was still being finished and the restaurant wasn’t yet opened as the generator had not yet arrived. This was no problem for us but power was limited. We met a lovely South African couple, Tina and Nick, from Joburg. They were on honeymoon at Sambatra and had gone to high school with the owner Vincent. We went snorkeling, played poker with French expats, visited a remote sand-bar, ate amazing seafood and drank too much. We celebrated New Year’s Eve at La Petite Traversee with our new friends. We danced well into the early hours of next morning. Nosy Boraha (8)

After four nights on beautiful Ile Aux Nattes, we decided to see what Ile Sainte Marie had to offer. We really loved our time on Ile Aux Nattes, but we wanted to see what the bigger island had to offer….time to try something new.

We got a tuk-tuk on Ile Sainte Marie to take us to a few hotels to check them out. We decided on Lakana, which had bungalows right on the water. We spent one night in one of these bungalows, which was atmospheric, but there was no toilet or shower in the bungalow.  We were lucky to witness traditional fishing by the local women. Circling fish in shallow waters and forcing then into nets.

We spent the our last three nights in a bungalow on the beach. We enjoyed a few days eating, snorkeling and just relaxing. We hired bicycles and rode to the elusive ‘Pirate’ Cemetery which was interesting. Tina and Nick had booked a few days at an exclusive resort, Princess Bora. We joined them for a swim in the poolsunset cocktails and dinner. We were sad to leave this paradise of Nosy Boraha, but work was waiting for us back in Fianarantsoa, and one cannot laze around forever…