Horden, Gaggenau, Germany 15 August – 3 September 2014
10 hours’ drive later we finally made it to Baden-Baden in Germany, where we met our great friends Kai and Kat Komotzki. We dropped the car off and they drove us to their lovely village, Horden. We had such a warm welcome from our friends; they really spoiled us, they had filled our fridge and cooked us delicious German food.
Kai and Kat got married on 23 August 2014 in a beautiful ceremony in their hometown. (Apparently Brangelina copied them and got married on the same day!) Unfortunately the weather wasn’t the best, but of course they were prepared and they had a reception in a local restaurant that rocked on until 6am! As Kat’s family owns a very successful bakery, the cake table was out of this world.
Everyone was so lovely to us in Horden. Kat’s sister Kristina who is a ranger at Kaltenbronn in the Black Forest took us for a long walk through the forest – there was quite a group of us. Check out the enormous blueberry pancakes compete with blueberry wine! We were also invited to a few delicious dinners at friend’s houses, they really we so hospitable.
Our friends Rod and Michelle also met us in Horden and spent a few days with us, which was really lovely. I think they enjoyed the Horden hospitality too!
A BIG THANK YOU to Kai and Kat Komotzki for inviting us to your wedding and being such warm and hospitable hosts!!! Congratulations you love birds!
Through Europe we had pre-booked most of our accommodation in Europe; we were there in August, so we were actually very glad that we did. We had great accommodation the whole time and didn’t have to worry about where we were going to stay the next night. However we had left the last two nights of our road trip unplanned. We decided to stay in Berwang, Austria as we were interested in checking out Neuchwenstein Castle, which was a 45 minute drive from Berwang. We booked an apartment through www.Booking.com. It was also good, and had a breathtaking view across the valley. It was quite cold up in the mountains, but very beautiful.
We tried to book a tour of Neuschwanstein Castle a few days previously, but it was fully booked. However, we weren’t too disappointed as we read on the internet that the interior of the castle was never actually finished and also that the tours are very rushed. So we decided to go to the castle anyway and see it from the outside. We were glad we did, it is in a beautiful setting, with nice walks through the forest and a great view back to the castle if you walk on to further to a bridge.
On our last morning in Berwang, we caught the ski lift up to the top of a mountain and walked up to the top of the next mountain (a quite strenuous but quick – 30 minute hike). The view was quite obscured by clouds, but it was still a very atmospheric and lung cleansing walk :-).
From Ella in the highlands, we travelled on down to the beach. We were lucky that a driver was heading that way so we got a relatively cheap ride. We first stopped at Tangalle, but the waves were extremely rough and at that time of year looked a bit of a ghost town, so we carried on to Mirissa. The driver had an aunty with a guesthouse called Celestial Inn and they gave us a great deal http://www.tripadvisor.com.au/Hotel_Review-g1407334-d6453035-Reviews-Celestial_Inn-Mirissa_Southern_Province.html. Alex was starting to get a pretty nasty fever by then, so we spent the next few days in the guesthouse. The owners were very kind and brought soup and food up to our room. We managed to get down to the beach for a swim though!
29 June – 1 July 2014 Unawatuna
We caught a tuk-tuk on to Unawatuna (also on the beach). It was only about 30 min from Mirissa. We had been warned that Unawatuna was over developed (like Patong in Phuket or Koh Samui), but we were pleasantly surprised. Perhaps because it was the off-season it wasn’t hugely busy, but it just had a lovely chilled atmosphere, but plenty of restaurants, shops and a few bars.
We first stopped at Kahuna Club guesthouse, but that was hugely disappointing, termites in the bed, musty mouldy pillows and sheets. So we decided to look for somewhere else, and we were glad we did! We found the best accommodation for our stay in Sri Lanka at the Pink Elephant, same price as Kahuna Club, but all new furnishings and a balcony with a great view over the beach http://www.tripadvisor.com.au/Hotel_Review-g644047-d4340355-Reviews-Pink_Elephant_Hotel_and_Restaurant-Unawatuna_Galle_Southern_Province.html. It is a shame that after the 2004 Tsunami, huge rocks have been brought into Unawatuna to prevent the houses from being washed away, which has affected the beauty of the beach (before the Tsunami it was frequently cited as one of the top ten beaches in the world). But it was still a great place to hang out. The owner of the Pink Elephant was an awesome guy, we shared a few drinks and stories with him. We also spent a morning at Galle, a walled fort city about 20 min via tuk-tuk from Unawatuna. Definitely worth a visit, but quite touristy.
1 – 2 July 2014
Bus back to Colombo, one night with Shehan (where we started) as we had a 6am flight to Dubai. The bus was very comfortable and fast. We shared one last kottu with Shehan and 3am we caught a taxi to the airport, farewell beautiful Sri Lanka!
We decided to make like a local and catch the bus to Sigiriya, an ancient monastery built on top of an imposing rock (think Uluru with historic ruins on top). The bus took 2.5 hours to Dambulla, where we changed and caught another to Sigiriya (40 min). Naturally, whilst waiting for the bus in Dambulla, the tuk-tuk drivers told us that there is only one bus per hour and they take one hour to get to Sigiriya, but, thanks to reading other peoples blogs (http://www.kancando.com/2013/01/kandy-to-sigiriya-sri-lanka-by-bus.html), we knew to stay firm and ten minutes later the bus turned up (interestingly, the same tuk-tuk driver that was trying to elicit our business advised us the bus had arrived, which is testament to Sri Lankan peoples good nature).
Sigiriya did not disappoint. Definitely check out the museum before climbing, as it gives perspective of the vast history of the place. We were a bit apprehensive about climbing the (sometimes hairy) staircase with Alex’s leg, but he did well and we were so proud that less than 13 weeks after his second surgery, he made it relatively easily! The tuk-tuk driver who took us from the Sigiriya bus stop to the entrance (for 100 rupees, less than $1 –you can walk this, I think it is around 1km), offered us lunch after the climb at his ‘restaurant’. True to his word, he picked us up and were whisked away to a private curry and rice at his home/hotel. He had recently built two tree houses in addition to two other rooms which looked pretty cool, but seeing as we still had our bags in the hotel room in Kandy, we continued back after lunch. 7pm we arrived back to our hotel, exhausted but happy.
The Horton Plains circuit is a wonderful leisurely three-four hour walk. We were lucky to see a herd of Sambur in the early morning mist. The scenery began a bit like Scotland, with moors and low lying ferns, but quickly changed into forest. We were also grateful that we made it to to World’s End before the rest of the tourists. We were not allowed to bring any plastic into the National Park, which was cool, though we still managed to see a small amount of plastic rubbish during the walk – there is just no stopping some people. The walk itself is quite stunning, with changing landscape every 15 minutes or so. Waterfalls, lakes, varied vegetation, if you enjoy nature at all, we heartily recommend Horton Plains.
24 – 26 June 2014 Ella
The next day we caught the 11am train to Ella. When the train arrived the locals advised us we would have to get down onto the train tracks to board the train. We bought third class for 40 rupees each (about 35c). Third class in this instance was fine, we heard stories of people being packed in like sardines, but we were lucky to have four seats to ourselves for most of the journey. We never bought first class as it is air conditioned and the windows are always closed. Local vendors cruise the isles selling fruit, yoghurt and local fried chickpea goodies. It is a beautiful train ride through large valleys of tea plantations. We were a little bit anxious that we might miss our stop as we didn’t know which train station was before Ella, but naturally the locals sitting across from us just knew that we would be going to Ella and advised us as we were approaching.
We hadn’t booked any accommodation, and when we arrived, asked one of the local touts to recommend a good guesthouse. Straight away a very polite man advised us he had a guest house with Wi-Fi and hot water for 2000 rupees and that he would take us there to have a look first. The guesthouse was a little way out of town, but the owner advised he was happy to take us in and out of town in his tuk-tuk for free, sweet! When we arrived, we were extremely happy, it was a huge, very clean practically new room right on the doorstep of little Adam’s Peak. Unfortunately he is not online yet, but his guest house is called ‘Chill’. I was almost a bit disappointed that we had booked our accommodation somewhere else for the next two nights as this place was fantastic. True to his word, the owner (Daneshka) took us into town after a hot shower and we ate at ‘Chill’ bar, which was also great. Alex ordered the curry of the day, which was nine curries! The staff kept coming up and asking if he wanted more!
Next morning we climbed little Adam’s Peak, which was a fairly easy 20 minute stroll. The top has amazing 360° views and well worth the effort. Lunch at a very local restaurant followed by a few drinks at Chill Bar again, we could get use to this! We had dinner back at the Waterfall Guesthouse which is a beautifully located place in the forest http://waterfalls-guesthouse-ella.com/. We had dinner with two other very interesting couples. Next day we decided to chill at the guesthouse as it was such a lovely place to just be.
Next stop was Ohiya, a small town in the hill country. We decided on Ohiya instead of Nuwara Eliya (another hill town recommended to us) because it is closer to Horton Plains. To see ‘World’s End’, you need to get to Horton Plains around 6-7am, after that the clouds roll in and the view is obscured. If you stay in Nuwara Eliya you have to start an hour and a half earlier than if you stay in Ohiya.
We stayed at Hill Safari Lodge, http://www.hillsafariecolodge.com/index.html which was (for us on a long trip) a little bit on the pricier side, 4500 rupees (approx. $35 dollars), but this included breakfast and dinner and we were glad we chose this place. The views are amazing, and the owner and staff were lovely. Soon after arrival, we decided to go on a walk, and took two local guides (of the canine variety). The lodge is located in the middle of a tea plantation and we passed several hardy women carrying heavy sacks of tea on their back –respect! Another delicious curry and rice for dinner, followed by a hot shower and early night – we did have a 5:45 am start.